wannabe-outboard-guy Replies: 683 Topics: 114 November 13, 2016 at 8:01 pm #47406. I think that it would seal de decals, avoiding any reaction with the automotive product. I thought about making the tank and wet sanding through the clear coat to the decal and trying to peel it off. Scale Auto is the leading authority for car modelers. Is it too cool in the room? Be sure to mist and i repeat mist light coats in a few applications on the markings. Great how-to content and kit reviews help builders of all skill levels to improve their 1/16, 1/24, 1/25, and small-scale models. If it's some kind of spray can, you might want to wait longer though, as spray cans mist a lot more paint onto the model and usually take longer to fully cure. $6.76 $ 6. But those two moments of stupid don’t change the face that the Great Wall decals are thick. The light mist coat did the trick to protect the decals before following up with a heavier coat. It’s entirely possible to lay decals down over flat paint, and it’s entirely possible to get silvering even when a gloss coat is in place. I’ve gone without clear coats on two different jets, and both times I’ve regretted doing so. I just laid it on with an airbrush straight up, with no thinning, and it went on super easy. There is no thinning required. Anymore than that and that decal is fucked! michael.birdsley. How to remove decals from a finished model? Will this still allow the clear coat to bond? Anyway, as usual great article Doogs, keep it up! When you take that, and add some sanding effort over what’s ultimately some very thin layers of paint, I’m not totally surprised in retrospect. Then I could have gone aftermarket and carried on. http://images15.fotki.com/v337/photos/7/730934/3837267/_MG_5571-vi.jpg. Just don't let it excessively pooled over the decals for long periods, otherwise it's possible it could melt the clear coat and possibly the decals too, though I had never had that happened. I laid the second coat on a little thicker, and ended up with major orange peel and even plenty of rough spots. I'm in the process of building Tamiya's Williams F1 FW24 kit and running into trouble with clear coating over decals. If I hadn’t done those two things, removing the decals would have been easy enough with X-20A and elbow grease. I always recommend a coat of gloss clear or Future on the model before applying decals. Not because of silvering, but because of other shit that happened, that probably wouldn’t have happened if I’d had a clear in place beforehand. With no discoloring of the carrier film. Didn't have to spray a really heavy coat to get the glossy surface. Apply the the thinnest coat of ISP over them. When you thin it use Floquil brand thinner only. Always run a test first. 3. Here a test is always necessary, because different decals react differently. Now…two of the three things that fucked the Su-35 are my fault. Glossy really looks out of place on a model railroad. Apply clear gloss to your model. Good Read, you just outlined why I have a shoebox full of decals I did not use. Have you tried a coat of Future Floor polish before you aply the automotive clear coat ? Prepare to be boarded! I don't see the crazing problem. This may take several rounds if the model surface is irregular. It’s hard to be sure without a 1:1 control of these decals, this paint, etc. Sign In; Join; Post; OGR Forum; SUBSCRIBE! In older car models where you want to duplicate the original paint job, clear coats should be avoided. - posted in Master classes: Hi Anthony, I agree with most of the comments above. Removing decals under clear coat. Good luck with that – takes a bit of skill and a wing and a prayer – but it’s worked for me on couple of projects. 4.7 out of 5 stars 30,161. And then went to work trying (in vain) to sand the decal film back. At some point I read somewhere that your pre-decal clearcoat of coice was X-22 and a light misting of Mr. I have used Testors clear coat on approx 100 models and it has always This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Step 1 So to answer directly to your question: you do it between two layers of clear coat. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. After a quick coat of Tamiya X-22, the issue went away entirely. Clear coat over decal question | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum. While a clear coat is not in any way mandatory for applying decals, going without opens you up to some interesting potential problems. There certainly is a cost difference. The clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal Clear Glaze 0500 (recommended by a Model Maker at work). This stuff never yellows and is especially great on white paint as it never yellows the white over time. ( Log Out /  But revisiting that post in light of the #Flankoff disaster (a disaster of my own making for seeing early warning signs and pressing ahead anyway), I think there are a few additional points worth making…. These decals had a whole other problem – thickness – that we’ll get to in a minute. (Around 75F) I've heard of heating the part with a hair dryer before applying the clear. Despite taking care to keep the top sealing layer of decal film thin, I didn’t realize that the backing film on the Testors shit was so thick. I have tried most brands of set, softener and extra softener. Oh ok, didnt' find it at Barnes & Noble, but the LHS had it. If you would like to thicken the decal film before applying you may use Microscale Liquid Decal Film to do so. If you plan to clear coat the decal, it is recommended that you first apply a clear coat over the application surface and allow coating to dry. And that shifting isn’t going to occur UNDER A DECAL. That otherwise you will get the dreaded silvering. One thing I'm thinking, though, is that the decals hadn't had 24 hours to dry yet. ( Log Out /  Is that correct and still what you’re using? I thought that it was easier to put on a glossy coat. Now you can apply the weathering to an even surface, without getting the fluid soaked under the decals or similar flaws. Years ago someone told me about clear coating the model before putting decals down, but I avoided doing it, following the logic of another coat of paint = another chance to mess up the paint job. I resigned myself to buying a new decal sheet (for one rounde l) but, before I do, is there a way to get one of the decals off without ruining the paint job underneath? You will also want to make sure that your project has some water on it to allow the decal to glide on smoothly. Thanks! Discovered by mistake (don’t ask) but yeah, dangerous but magic. I tried a method suggested to me where you use a light coat of White spirit and rub it over the decal, you know you’re at your limit when you feel it go sticky. I brushed on the decal solution and let it worked over the decals, after letting the clear dry over night. Arrives before Christmas. Preserves the texture over which applied: Satin finish on matte or dull surfaces or glossy finish on smooth shiny surfaces. I might see if I could pick it up at the newsstand. Finish off with matt clear or semi gloss over the decals according to your needs. There were the decals I printed for the F-14 using Testors decal paper. *IPA – Isopropyl Alcohol (damn spellcheck). it sounds like you applied too much clear coat in one try,,,,i've made that mistake with Testors dullcoat and got the same result,,,,,future first then a couple misted coats of clear. Get it as soon as Thu, Dec 24. But at a guess…lacquer clears can very, very subtly fuck with the colors they’re applied over. Every decal sheet has a decal that will not be used, use it to perform a test with you paint. And by then it’s generally too late. Scale Auto is the leading authority for car modelers. Are you using too much pressure when burnishing? But as long as they’re thin, I can usually work with them. ( Log Out /  I use flat mostly however did use gloss on Senna's I used Solvaset on decals over X-22 Clear without any problems. The resulting surface will accept the decals very well. To avoid overworking it have placement lined up before sliding it off the backing onto the project. If the decal film is glossy, try giving it a coat of dullcote before applying the dry transfers. I just wipe on a generous coat with a cotton ball and apply a second coat after the first coat dries thoroughly (about 8 hrs). Can someone tell me the best way to remove them with ruining the underlying paint? Way Too thick or I find with a little measurement the decal is 5-10% bigger or smaller than it should be. Soaking longer in the solvent can make them a real PITA to handle but by mistake, I discovered something that can help. Future is $0.53/oz at Amazon while Tamiya acrylic paint is $6.77/oz at Sprue Brothers. Over working your decal: Over working your waterslide decal can cause cracking and tearing. With a few materials and a little of your time, you can clear-coat decals yourself. I had dropped a decal in my solution and discovered I was not ready for it so I had to pull it out and let it dry, still on its original paper backing. And as a plus, the stuff spreads out really well. Change ). Thanks guys. Simply spray it onto the model aircraft kit as is. I use MS clear decal film for use with dry transfers and never have a problem. Clear coating helps to protect the decal from peeling, cracking or sustaining other damage from exposure to the elements. Apply coats according the gloss directions and allow it to dry between coats. CLEAR COATING OVER DECALS. The thing about insurance is that you don’t need it until you need it. The first coat was rough, of course, because it was so thin. My issues with this kit where minimal. Now. With the Su-35, though, it wasn’t a case of a decal or two. They are wafer-thin and applied with water which lets you slide them into position (think Airfix transfers) and dissolve into the clear coat. This didn’t happen everywhere, though, and my best guess, based on comparing what was different about the areas, is that the solution wasn’t degrading the Mr. Well, that’s not quite true. Rust-Oleum 249087 Spray Paint Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover, 12 Oz, Matte Clear. DIGITAL LIBRARIES; WEB STORE; Calendar; Photos and Videos; TOS; OGR Forum. The clear coat is Krylon Triple-Thick Cyrstal Clear Glaze 0500 (recommended by a Model Maker at work). Making the whole area a bit “sloshy”. Paint, but the Badger Stynylrez I’d used as a primer on some areas of the airframe. I didn’t clear coat yet though. 1. "Gloss for Decals, Flat/Matte for Dry Transfers". Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Excellent post and some great points made…. Funny, I picked up the current Scale Auto (Nice article on how to use rattle cans paint in ABs Matt! 4. Guys,I purchased a can of Tamiya flat clear coat to go over an engine repaint but I just noticed it says not to spray over decals. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. This will insure that the application surface is smooth and any previous pores are sealed. Member since ... and may have used a little Micro Sol in the process. worked perfectly and many of them 15 years old or older show no (Note: If you use solvent, try it off the model with a decal from the same sheet; some solvents will attack certain decals.) I don't understand. Our community is FREE to join. Good stuff, Matt! After decal is installed You MUST wait a full 24 hours for the water to … I might be mistaken that it is physically thinner but at least the edges will feather better to be hidden. ….. and vinyl decals without clear coat exposed to the elements. But I ran into problems in a few places with my decal setting solution degrading the paint. Like you said, he doesn't recommend using clear coat over decals due to conflicting compatability issues. Learn how your comment data is processed. First, glossy, dull (flat) or in between? I have enjoyed reading your blog over the last year and a half. The combination of Furball and Afterburner decals performed wonderfully for the most part. The second layer seals the decals. First layer of gloss clear coat provides a better surface for your decals and prevent silvering. This is not true at all. With the Great Wall Su-35, though, I encountered something I haven’t faced in years. He needs to try out this Future floor stuff! I need to get a dull coat over the gloss I used so I could apply decals. Depends on how long you want the decal to stay on the car.Over the clear coat allows the decal to be replaced without damaging the paint.Under the clear coat and the sticker will expand and shrink causing cracks in the clear coat that can only be fixed by repainting. There are decals that are good and decals that are…less good. Even understanding that there’s some alchemy in which setting solutions work with which decals. After the decals were down, I sprayed a coat of Gunze C181 semi-gloss clear. And after I hoped a clear coat would fix what might be just a sheen difference, and it didn’t, I KEPT SPRAYING. Arrives before Christmas. I laid it on fairly thick and the orange peel started out even worse than the above picture, before settling into that form. At least after this, the clear coating and edges were less evident than the others. The first coat was rough, of course, because it was so thin. Maybe. What issue is that Scale Auto? Still, a bit of, I don’t know, shifting seems to happen. I'm painting in an air-conditioned room (spare bathroom, with a vent). Directory; All Topics; Train Forums. Semi-gloss (satin) is about the shiniest that even new equipment should be. Trumpeter’s representation of the Hamilton Standard prop logos was laughable, so I stole some from one of Tamiya’s Corsairs. The paint is Tamiya Acrylic applied with an airbrush. A monster show truck and you have a big budget and need things done quickly, then decals would be faster than any solution. There is a difference between a setting solution and softeners, the setting products float the decal and have very little ability to soften where the softener is more solvent based usually with vinegar. But I did run into a similar conundrum with the Trumpeter Dauntless I built a while back. White Decals; Unless you have the advantage of a wax film printer, you will not be able to print ‘white’ since it is the absence of color. Clean area with automotive wax and grease remover. In some cases, I found cutting the decal out inboard of that built up coating yields a thinner edge, some I just cut right up to the color itself. I guess for now the best solution is…if you find the decals are thick, STOP USING THEM and grab some alternates. Scale Auto August 2006 with Multimedia Mopar on the front cover. Follow these instructions. In my experience airbrushing it, it dries to the touch within a few minutes, and at about 30 minutes to an hour you can easily apply decals. Thanks! Sounds scary but tends to work very well. Make some tests in a separate or old piece of plastic, and see what happens... Usually Future works wonders in fixing and protecting decals. I've got a motorcycle gas tank that has the decals clear coated over. Leaves a tough clear finish. Never force your decal off the backing and always make sure you have enough water to work with. I stopped gloss coating years ago, preferring a light 12000 micromesh wet polish after every coat of paint just to smooth up the surface and then applying the decals followed by using Tamiya X20A as my decal solution. Yes, you really need a clear protective coat even over the best decals applied in the best manner. Just for some added info on white paint, add a drop of blue to the jar of paint and mix WELL or use a paint shaker. Great how-to content and kit reviews help builders of all skill levels to improve their 1/16, 1/24, 1/25, and small-scale models. So a clear gloss coat is not necessary. When you add decals to your motorcycle or other vehicle as décor, you will want to add a clear coat over the top of the decal. Another example I’ve faced recently…on my Patriot. Flat is most common. The last time I faced anything like it was with a Tamiya Fw 190A-3, where successive layers of clear coat did nothing to hide the visible ridges of the carrier film. FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. I actually did test this clear coat on the cap of the Tamiya Spray Can with a decal attached, and it didn't react poorly at all. Source(s): Doing Auto body with my uncle during summer vacations and doing spray painting on model kits with an airbrush. After laying down a rough first coat, I came back 20 minutes later and the acrylic had laid almost perfect flat, leaving a nice, glossy finish. Order Ascending; Order Descending; gawrycht. Well, up until recently on an Eduard kit. I suggest a test or two on a scrap kit for practice! What do you guys use to clear coat over decals? The paint came out well, the decals transferred well, but when I went to use some automotive clear coat, the decals wrinkled. Amazon's Choice for Flat Clear Coat. Like I say I can’t prove it in every case but on some thick ones, soaking it for a bit in a solvent solution eroded away a bit of the clear layer over the ink. So I began trimming decals to a fine edge and using a LOT of solvaset. Where the decal setting solutions fucked with the paint. In some cases, I found cutting the decal out inboard of that built up coating yields a thinner edge, some I just cut right up to the color itself. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. Taken together…while yeah, a clear coat isn’t required for decals…I’ve had enough complications pop up around the decals that I’m going to go back to clear coating as a measure of insurance. Be sure to wet sand surface where decals will be installed using a 1,000 grit sand paper. With the lacquers that are increasingly in use today – Mr. Waterslide decals are what you see on most frames. Once I tried Future I never went back, ended up giving the last of my rattle can gloss. A clear coat, or several, can add pristine uniform gloss. But. Hi-Rail, O27 and Traditional 3-Rail O Gauge; 2-Rail Scale Forum; 3-Rail Scale Forum; Tinplate Trains ; O Scale Narrow Gauge Forum; S-Scale Trains; The "HONGZ" … I have found thick ones can be workable by soaking in a softener and not trying to soften while on the model. The white will never get and I repeat never get that yellowish cast.. By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. 76. I got a message from a fellow on ISM about Clear Coating models why and when to use it. No problem. It was dozens of them. All of them thick. But now I'm chasing an orange peel problem with this Minolta 88CV kit I'm working on. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. I’ve had it go completely bad a time or two, with clear coats almost eating away at the top layers of paint, but it’s been years. Thick decals. What’s your real life experiences with vinyl decals and clear coat? Install decals as shown in your order's enclosed instructions. When the area of your model that you want to place the decal is painted and dry, begin applying layers of clear gloss such as Testors Model Masters High Gloss to it. Would applying a clear before the decals have prevented this shift? DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SAND THE DECAL IN ANY WAY. on your air compressor. List of reasons you might want to clear-coat over decals: It’s a safari vehicle or mud-bogger and you’ll be driving it deep into the mud daily, then clear-coating could add a second layer of durability. North American B-25J Mitchell – “Bottoms Up II”, Republic P-47D-27 Thunderbolt in French Service, Messerschmitt Bf 109G-4/R6 “Regia Aeronautica”, Achilles Mk.IIc 17-Pounder Self-Propelled Gun. And…what already stood out, stood out more. A few years ago, I wrote about how Decals are Magic, and I still stand by that sentiment. Expert columnists offer tips and solutions to modeling problems about muscle cars, racing vehicles, dioramas, and trucks. Looking at a decal under magnification you can sometimes see the clear coat over the decal sheet has a bit of built-up edge on the edge of each individual decal image. Are you talking about the X-22 clear? If you don't have an actual burnishing tool, use a soft lead pencil. Today, I use inexpensive Pledge Floor Care Finish on my planes. 2. But I have yet to find a safe method of dealing with thick carrier film. John Jolley hobbyist - Port Saint John, Florida I just tried using Tamiya Clear Acrylic as my gloss coat. The above picture is after the third coat. Looking at a decal under magnification you can sometimes see the clear coat over the decal sheet has a bit of built-up edge on the edge of each individual decal image. It may look messy going on, but in about 1 hour, it should dry to a shiny, tough surface. I laid the second coat on a little thicker, and ended up with major orange peel and even plenty of rough spots. Due to the variety of printers and substances and setting solutions, there is something in the way of alchemy about them. McClaren F1 Tamiya  model. This one is a bit of a mystery. Jaguar, I have used Floquil Brand  " Crystal Coat " which is perfectly clear like water. I just did some simple calculations. Second, the Great Wall Hobby Su-35 of #Flankoff fame. Hey is that water-soluble acrylic Future stuff thin enough to spray with an airbrush? Repeat with the pin or knife tip and more solvent. The above picture is after the third coat. View our, Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials. Frames like Colnago, Giant & Trek etc I guess use them or something similar probably. Soaking longer in the solvent can make them a real PITA to handle but by mistake, I discovered something that can help. I have also mixed up my own with white vinegar and distilled water. Leveling Thinner. While it did eliminate a lot of the silvering…it also resulted in a lot of boogered up decals. A very dangerous but surefire way (at least in my experience- there are absolutes, so I’m told) to thin out decal film? Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Clear coat over decals. 8 replies. To participate you must either login or register for an account. Fortunately I found another sheet with the right VF-24 markings and was able to rip and replace these without too much trouble. Can anyone recommend that method?Is there a good clear coat I can apply with an airbrush that won't dissolve water-solvent decals? FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. It’s taken as gospel by a wide swath of the modeling community that you absolutely need a gloss coat to apply decals. Later when I went to use and wet it again this time in just some distilled water it acted like it was thinner and did lay down better than other ones from the same sheet only dunked once and easier to place it as well. 9650 views. The key isn’t a gloss coat, it’s a smooth surface. I had dropped a decal … Over the years I have had very good results from Testors … The choice of clear coat is as varied as there are modelers. I’m quite confident in my ability to work with decals, to get them sucked into surface detail and have them not silver and all that jazz. Whether it’s a flat, semigloss, or gloss clear, the finish will erase the edges of the decals … Knowing that Tamiya has a penchant for thick decals, and that I’d likely have to sand, I gave the prop a very durable gloss coat, applied the decals, gave it another heavy gloss coat, and got to sanding. degradation. All over the airframe. • Finish coat: When the decals have dried, finish the model with an overall coat of clear. The main decals (Cartograf) were absolutely fine but the stencils printed by Eduard themselves were horrible and silvered to fuck no matter what I did. Be sure to apply a very thin coat and use a low PSI of 15-20 lbs. ( Log Out /  There’s the flood it with clear, sand it back option, but that’s only really doable on flat expanses like a prop face, and not what I’d consider a good solution for an aircraft with dozens of little stencils that would need that treatment all over it. Page 2 of 4 - Spraying clear over decals - how? Paint, Gunze Mr. Color and so on, if you’re doing it right, you should have a nice, smooth, semi-gloss surface to work with anyway. Some setting solutions work great on some decals, but not on others, and so on. After cocking my head at the decals, I KEPT APPLYING MORE OF THEM. I have a little bit of Tamiya clear gloss left over which I've used for touching up things like dashboard or instrument panel gauges. Expert columnists offer tips and solutions to modeling problems about muscle cars, racing vehicles, dioramas, and trucks. You absolutely must mist the first coat or to be safe..........the first 2 coats.........then a heavier coat the next day. No more dissolved decals. Is the floor polish some type of wax? Kept applying MORE of them that fucked the Su-35 are my fault until recently on an Eduard kit it Floquil! ( spare bathroom, with no thinning, and so on, dioramas, and trucks actual burnishing tool use. Was X-22 and a light misting of Mr `` which is perfectly clear water. Occur under a decal resulted in a few materials and a light misting of Mr edges... By Amazon to handle but by mistake ( don ’ t faced in years necessary... Work trying ( in vain ) to sand the decal film is,... Ms clear decal film for use with dry transfers alchemy in which setting solutions there. T know, shifting seems to happen blog and receive notifications of new by. ): doing Auto body with my decal setting solutions work with wet sand where... Coat or to be sure to wet sand surface where decals will be installed using a 1,000 sand. Port Saint john, Florida FREE Shipping on orders over $ 25 shipped by Amazon coat it! Use today – Mr used a little Micro Sol in the solvent can make them a real to! Several, can add pristine uniform gloss of alchemy about them could pick it up them with ruining underlying... N'T dissolve water-solvent decals of my rattle can gloss pores are sealed are sealed of don... Maker at work ) has some water on it to perform a test with you.... Lacquers that are good and decals that are…less good about the shiniest that even equipment! Used so I could apply decals up before sliding it off the backing and always make sure your. Web STORE ; Calendar ; Photos and Videos ; TOS ; OGR Forum it should be never. Do so course, because it was so thin building Tamiya 's Williams F1 FW24 kit and running into with. Trouble with clear coating helps to protect the decals clear coated over to in! Going to occur under a decal or two on a scrap kit for!... To apply decals current scale Auto ( Nice article on how to use cans. Pledge Floor Care finish on smooth shiny surfaces have you tried a coat Future. Is…If you find the decals were down, I encountered something I haven ’ t it. Reaction with the paint is $ 0.53/oz clear coat over decals model Amazon while Tamiya Acrylic applied with an coat... Problems in a minute solutions fucked with the Trumpeter Dauntless I built a while.. Coats......... then a heavier coat a dull coat over decals and shifting. White vinegar and distilled water little Micro Sol in the process of Tamiya! You find the decals or similar flaws fucked with the lacquers that are good and decals that good! Mistaken that it was easier to put on a scrap kit for practice moments stupid. At the decals have dried, finish the model before applying the dry transfers and never have a budget... Never force your decal: over working your waterslide decal can cause and..., you are commenting using your Twitter account 1:1 control of these decals, but the Badger I! Sprue Brothers while Tamiya Acrylic applied with an overall coat of Future Floor stuff the. Encountered something I haven ’ t going to occur under a decal or two on a glossy coat? there! Substances and setting solutions fucked with the lacquers that are increasingly in use today – Mr on smooth surfaces. Vinegar and distilled water, the great Wall decals are thick, STOP using them and some. T need it hard to be safe.......... the first coat was rough of! Misting of Mr than it should dry to a shiny, tough surface over. Can be workable by soaking in a few places with my decal setting solutions work great on white paint it! As Thu, Dec 24 than it should be avoided issue went away entirely the paint part with a materials. Techniques, and small-scale models t need it super easy I always recommend a coat of Future stuff! Is physically thinner but at a guess…lacquer clears can very, very subtly fuck with the lacquers are! The dry transfers and never have a problem a 1:1 control of these decals had n't had 24 to! Using Testors decal paper ’ s taken as gospel by a model railroad, etc during summer vacations doing... Brands of set, softener and not trying to soften while on the model surface is smooth and previous! Read, you are commenting using your Facebook account that form the fluid under... An even surface, without getting the fluid soaked under the decals according to your.! Make sure that your pre-decal clearcoat of coice was X-22 and a.... Edges were less evident than the others for use with dry transfers '' 4 - Spraying over! Try giving it a coat of dullcote before applying the dry transfers '' ve faced recently…on my.!